The Qaysari Bazaar wraps around the base of the citadel mound in a warren of narrow covered lanes that has been a market since the 13th century. It is not a tourist bazaar but a working commercial market — vendors sell spices, textiles, jewellery, traditional Kurdish clothing, fresh and dried fruits, hardware, and the everyday goods of Kurdish urban life.
The covered sections closest to the citadel gate are the most atmospheric, particularly the sections selling spices and dried herbs where the smell is overwhelming in a good way. The gold market section has dozens of shops selling traditional jewellery designs alongside modern pieces. Bargaining is expected. The bazaar connects with the general commercial streets of central Erbil; allow an hour or two to get pleasantly lost.