Getting around Iraq requires patience and flexibility. The infrastructure has improved significantly since 2017 but is still uneven.
Intercity
Shared taxis are the most common and reliable way to travel between cities. You pay for a seat in a car that leaves when full — slower than taking the whole car, but cheap. For longer distances, intercity buses run between Baghdad, Basra, Mosul, Erbil, and Sulaymaniyah. Companies like Al-Mansour and Zain Transport offer reasonably comfortable coaches. Overnight options exist for the Baghdad–Basra run.
Hiring a private driver for a day or multi-day trip is highly recommended for visiting archaeological sites. Drivers often double as informal guides and fixers and can make a real difference to what you can access and how smoothly the journey goes. Rates are negotiable but expect to pay roughly $80–120 per day.
In Cities
Taxis are plentiful in Baghdad and other major cities. Meters are rarely used — agree a price before getting in. In Baghdad, the official airport taxi costs around 40,000 IQD to the city; there is also a bus for 9,000 IQD.
Ride-hailing apps are increasingly common. Careem works in Baghdad and Erbil. Local apps including Baly and Amin operate in Baghdad. Using an app removes the haggling problem and is generally safer than flagging down an unmarked car.
Checkpoints
Expect police and military checkpoints on intercity roads and near holy sites. Have your passport or a copy with you at all times. Checkpoints slow things down but are usually routine. Do not photograph soldiers, checkpoints, or government buildings.
Kurdistan vs. Federal Iraq
Moving around Iraqi Kurdistan (Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Dohuk) is genuinely straightforward. Roads are in good condition, taxis are metered in some cities, and the general atmosphere is relaxed. Crossing from Kurdistan into Federal Iraq involves a checkpoint but is not problematic for foreigners with valid documents.