Takayama eats unusually well for a mountain town of its size, thanks to the surrounding farms and the famous Hida cattle. Hida beef is everywhere — as sushi, on skewers, in hot pot — and is genuinely as good as the more famous wagyu brands of central Japan. Soba and ramen are also strong; Hida-style ramen is darker and saltier than the southern Japanese style. The morning markets and shokudo (canteens) around the bus station and old town serve excellent unfussy food.