Yamaguchi's best day starts at Rurikoji, where the five-storied pagoda stands in Kozan Park as the city's signature sight. Joeiji Temple is quieter and rewards slower looking, especially in Sesshu's garden, where rocks and pond edges read almost like an ink painting. Later, head to Yuda Onsen for a soak or one of the public foot baths, then stop by St. Francis Xavier Memorial Church for the city's unusual link to early Christianity in Japan.