Japanese cuisine is one of the great food cultures of the world — precise, seasonal, and extraordinarily varied. The popular image of sushi and ramen is just the beginning.
Sushi and sashimi
Sushi (vinegared rice with fish or other toppings) has a history going back four centuries. Contrary to what many visitors expect, a lot of sushi contains no raw fish at all — tamago (egg), cucumber, and pickled vegetables are standard. Sashimi is raw fish served on its own. Both are widely available everywhere from upscale omakase restaurants (where the chef chooses for you, at prices that can exceed ¥30,000 per person) to conveyor-belt kaiten sushi where individual plates run ¥100–300.
Ramen
Each region has its own style. Sapporo is famous for miso ramen; Fukuoka for tonkotsu (pork bone broth, rich and creamy); Tokyo for soy-based shoyu ramen; Kyoto for a lighter, delicate broth. A bowl costs ¥800–1,200 at a dedicated ramen shop. Lunch is usually the same menu as dinner at lower prices.
Izakaya
The izakaya is Japan's pub — a casual place for drinking beer or sake while grazing through small plates. Yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), edamame, karaage (fried chicken), and pickles are typical starting points. You can eat well here for ¥2,000–3,000 a head including drinks.
Other essentials
- Tempura: fish and vegetables in a light, crispy batter. The technique came from Portuguese missionaries in the 16th century; the Japanese perfected it.
- Tonkatsu: pork cutlet breaded and deep-fried, served with shredded cabbage and a thick Worcestershire-style sauce. Good, cheap lunch.
- Unagi: grilled eel, lacquered with a sweet soy glaze and served over rice. A midsummer speciality, though available year-round.
- Okonomiyaki: a thick savory pancake with cabbage, meat, and seafood, topped with mayo and sauce. The Osaka and Hiroshima versions differ significantly — locals have strong opinions about which is correct.
- Onigiri: triangular rice balls wrapped in nori (seaweed), filled with pickled plum, tuna, or salmon. Sold everywhere in convenience stores for around ¥100–150. One of Japan's great everyday foods.
Kaiseki
The high end of Japanese cuisine is kaiseki — a multi-course meal following seasonal ingredients and careful presentation. Expect ten or more small courses. The best experiences are in Kyoto, and in onsen ryokan where kaiseki dinner is often included in the room rate.
Vegetarians and vegans
Japanese cuisine uses dashi (fish stock) in many broths, including things that look vegetarian. Tofu, tempura, and soba can often contain it. Strict vegetarians should learn the phrase "niku nashi, sakana nashi" (no meat, no fish) and expect some trial and error, particularly outside cities. Vegan-friendly options are improving rapidly in Tokyo and Kyoto.
Eating out
Many restaurants display plastic food models or photo menus in the window — point if words fail. You pay at the till on the way out, not to the server. It is considered rude to eat and drink while walking; sit down and enjoy.