Kennin-ji, founded in 1202, is the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto and the headquarters of one of the major Rinzai schools. It sits in a quiet walled compound at the southern end of the Gion district, almost unnoticed by the tourist crowds working their way up Hanamikōji to the bars and restaurants.
The temple has two famous painted works on view (both modern reproductions of older originals nearby in the Kyoto National Museum): the Wind and Thunder Gods screen by Tawaraya Sōtatsu (early 17th century) and the Twin Dragons ceiling painting by Koizumi Junsaku, completed in 2002 to mark the temple's 800th anniversary. The dragons cover the full 11.4-by-15.7-metre ceiling of the Hōdō hall in monochrome ink. The various sub-temples — Ryōsoku-in, Ryūgin-an, Reigen-in — each have their own gardens and are well worth the additional small fees.