Bear Pond Espresso in Shimokitazawa is one of the most talked-about coffee bars in Japan — a tiny, idiosyncratic shop where the owner Katsuyuki Tanaka serves his Angel Stain espresso with a precision and devotion that verges on the religious. The espresso is extraordinary: dense, sweet, with no bitterness. The shop closes when the supply runs out (usually mid-afternoon).
The neighbourhood of Shimokitazawa itself — a warren of vintage clothing shops, live music venues, second-hand bookshops, and independent cafes — is worth the detour even before you reach Bear Pond. Subway: Shimokitazawa station on the Keio Inokashira line.