Machaerus (Arabic Mukawir) is a ruined fortress on a sharp conical hill about 50 km southwest of Madaba — a 45-minute drive through small Bedouin villages. The fortress was built by the Hasmoneans and rebuilt by Herod the Great as one of the chain of fortified eyries that ringed his kingdom. After his death it passed to Herod Antipas, who held court here.
The site itself is austere: a few cisterns, the foundations of the throne room, the lower town below. A modern colonnade has been re-erected on one corner of the platform. The view, however, is overwhelming — desert dropping away in every direction to the salt haze of the Dead Sea. Go with your own driver; there is no public transport, and the visit pairs naturally with Mount Nebo.