Salt's coffee houses are not tourist cafes — they are working institutions where men have been gathering for conversation, cards, and news since the Ottoman period. The ones near the old souq, particularly along the lanes branching off Al-Hammam Street, are the most atmospheric. Expect simple wooden chairs, a cloud of cigarette smoke, and coffee or tea brought without much prompting.
The ritual of coffee service here follows Jordanian custom: the first cup, bitter and cardamom-spiced, is refilled until you signal you have had enough by tilting the cup. Turning down a second cup too early is considered impolite. Budget plenty of time — leaving quickly is also considered rude.