Hamra was Beirut's commercial and intellectual heart for much of the 20th century — the place writers, journalists and exiled politicians gathered in the cafes between AUB and the seafront. It still has the densest concentration of bookshops and independent cinemas in the city, plus a long pedestrianised stretch of clothing stores and street food joints.
The 2019 economic crisis hit Hamra hard and many storefronts have closed. What remains is a more lived-in, less polished neighbourhood than the rebuilt downtown — perfect for an afternoon of strolling, eating, and people-watching. The streets running south from Hamra Street are dotted with university buildings and quiet old apartment blocks.