Al-Baba is one of the names that comes up whenever Lebanese argue about who makes the best sweets in the country. The Sidon original — there are now branches across Lebanon and abroad — is a busy, brightly lit shop where trays of knafeh, baklava, ma'amoul, and bird's nest pastries are restocked throughout the day.
Try the knafeh nabulsieh: shredded pastry over warm white cheese, drenched in rose-water syrup, served on a sesame-flour bun. Eat it standing at the counter or take a box home. Cash is preferred; queues can be long on weekends.