Sidon (Saida in Arabic) is the capital of South Lebanon and one of the great ancient Phoenician cities. It sits on the coast about 40 km south of Beirut and is worth visiting for its atmospheric old town, its sea castle and its legendary sweets.
The Sea Castle, built by Crusaders in the 13th century on a small island connected to the shore by a causeway, is Sidon's most recognisable landmark. The old town behind it is a warren of narrow lanes, vaulted souks and Ottoman-era khans (caravansaries). The Khan el-Franj (Inn of the Foreigners) is a beautifully restored 17th-century trading house. Just north of the city, the Temple of Eshmun is the only substantially preserved Phoenician temple in Lebanon.
Sidon is famous throughout Lebanon for its sweet shops. If you have a taste for baklava, knafeh or other Middle Eastern pastries, Al-Baba and Kanaan are the two names to know — both have legions of devoted fans across the country.
The city is predominantly Sunni Muslim and more conservative than Beirut. It is a working city rather than a tourist town, which gives it an authenticity that can be refreshing. Sidon can be visited as a day trip from Beirut or as a stop on the way to Tyre further south.