Tripoli is one of the best places to eat in Lebanon, with a strong tradition of both savoury food and sweets.
Hallab is Tripoli's most famous name -- a sweet shop and restaurant that has been operating since 1881. Their baklava, knafeh and other pastries are outstanding and widely considered among the best in Lebanon. The main branch is on El Mina Avenue, but there are several others.
The Mina (port) district has excellent seafood restaurants overlooking the harbour. Fresh fish, grilled or fried, served with tahini and lemon, is the speciality. Prices are lower than in Beirut and the fish is often fresher.
For traditional Lebanese food, the restaurants in and around the old city serve good grilled meats, mezze and foul (fava bean stew). Tripoli's street food is also excellent -- look for falafel, shawarma and manakish at the many small shops throughout the city.
Tripoli is noticeably cheaper than Beirut for eating out. A filling street food meal costs a couple of dollars; a sit-down meal with mezze and grilled meat runs $10-15 per person.