The Malé Fish Market, on the harbour-front Boduthakurufaanu Magu, is the most atmospheric place in the city. From late afternoon onwards the dhoni boats land their catch — mostly skipjack and yellowfin tuna, plus reef fish, octopus and the occasional shark — and the fish are gutted, deheaded and bargained over on long concrete tables. The work is fast, noisy, and bloody, and the scene gives a sharper picture of how the Maldives actually feeds itself than any resort buffet can.
The neighbouring local market sells fruit, vegetables, coconuts and bundles of fragrant betel leaves brought in from the outer atolls. Both markets are at their best between 4 pm and sunset, when traders and shoppers fill the streets. Step carefully — the floors stay wet and slippery.