Nepal has more festivals than almost any country its size — the saying goes that there is a festival almost every day somewhere in the Kathmandu Valley. Most are Hindu or Buddhist in origin, but many blend both traditions, and the Newars in particular celebrate an astonishing calendar of community events.
Dashain (September/October) is the biggest national festival, lasting 15 days. It celebrates Goddess Durga's victory over evil and involves family gatherings, animal sacrifices, kite-flying, and card games. Tika (coloured paste and rice) is applied to the forehead by elders. The entire country seems to slow down and return to its home villages.
Tihar (October/November), also known as Diwali, follows Dashain about two weeks later. The festival of lights lasts five days. Each day has a different focus — crows, dogs, cows, and oxen are all honoured before the main day of Laxmi Puja, when the goddess of wealth is welcomed with oil lamps. It is a beautiful time to be in Nepal.
Holi (February/March) marks the arrival of spring with coloured powders and water. The Kathmandu celebrations can be exuberant to the point of chaotic — take clothes you don't mind ruining if you join in.
Lhosar (January/February) is the Tibetan New Year celebrated by the Sherpa, Tamang, and Gurung communities. There are processions and cultural performances in Boudhanath and in Pokhara. The date varies according to the Tibetan calendar.
Buddha Jayanti (May) celebrates the birth, enlightenment, and death of the Buddha on the full moon of the Nepali month of Baishakh. Boudhanath and Lumbini are the main centres of celebration.
Indra Jatra (August/September) is a week-long Newar festival in Kathmandu's Durbar Square, featuring the public appearance of the Kumari (the living goddess), chariot processions, masked dances, and considerable quantities of rice beer. One of the most visually impressive festivals in the country.
Mani Rimdu (October/November) is performed by Sherpa monks at Tengboche and Chiwong monasteries in the Khumbu region. The three-day festival features masked dances depicting the triumph of Buddhism over ancient Bon religion. It coincides with the peak autumn trekking season — if you're in the Everest region in October or November, try to time a rest day at Tengboche for it.
If you plan to travel during Dashain, book transport and accommodation well in advance. Buses fill up and prices rise. Conversely, the Valley during Dashain is quieter than usual, and some restaurants close as owners go home to their families.