By Air
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) in Kathmandu is Nepal's only international airport. All international flights arrive here. Airlines serving Kathmandu include Qatar Airways, Emirates, Fly Dubai, Air India, IndiGo, Turkish Airlines, and a handful of others. There are no direct flights from Europe or North America — most Western visitors connect in the Gulf or in India.
The airport is functional but cramped. Arriving can be slow: visa on arrival queues can be long during peak season (October–November). Fill in the arrival card on the plane. You'll need a passport photo — the machines in the terminal charge around $2 but are unreliable; bring your own printed photos. Visa fees are $30 for 15 days, $50 for 30 days, payable in cash (USD, Euros, or major currencies) or by card.
From the airport to Thamel (the main tourist neighbourhood) is about 6 km. Prepaid taxi counters at arrivals give you a fixed price and a voucher — use these rather than negotiating with drivers outside. The drive takes 20–40 minutes depending on traffic, which can be severe.
By Land from India
The main border crossings are:
Sunauli/Belahiya — the most popular overland crossing, connecting Gorakhpur (UP) with Bhairahawa on the Nepal side. Regular buses connect to Pokhara and Kathmandu. The crossing is straightforward and can be done in daylight.
Raxaul/Birgunj — connects Patna and Kolkata with central Nepal. Useful if coming from eastern India, but a longer onward journey to Kathmandu.
Kakarbhitta — the eastern crossing, connecting Siliguri/Darjeeling with the eastern Terai. Useful for onward travel to eastern Nepal or to reach Kathmandu from the east.
At all land borders you can get a visa on arrival. The process is the same as the airport.
By Land from Tibet/China
The Friendship Highway between Lhasa and Kathmandu was the classic overland route into Nepal but independent travel between Tibet and Nepal is heavily restricted by Chinese authorities and changes frequently. Organised tours are required on the Tibetan side. Check current rules carefully before planning this route.