The stupa of Swayambhunath rises from a hill about 3 km west of Thamel, approached by a steep flight of 365 steps lined with carved figures and prayer flags. The hilltop complex is one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in Nepal and one of the oldest religious monuments in the Kathmandu Valley — inscriptions date to the 5th century AD, though the site is certainly older. It is also home to a large and entirely uninhibited population of rhesus macaques, which gives the site its English nickname.
The panoramic view from the hilltop over the valley is the best in the city — especially in the early morning, when the air is clearest and light comes from the east. The stupa itself, with its great white dome, its tower painted with meditating eyes, and its golden canopy of 13 rings representing the stages to enlightenment, is one of the most visually arresting things in Nepal. Allow at least two hours — one to walk up and around the stupa, and one to sit and watch the activity.