Negros Oriental is the quieter, greener half of Negros island, facing Cebu across the Tañon Strait. Where the western side is all sugarcane and big-city bustle, the east is volcanic mountains, waterfalls, and a coastline that draws divers from around the world. The provincial capital, Dumaguete, is one of the most liveable small cities in the Philippines.
Dumaguete itself is a university town with a tree-lined boulevard along the waterfront, good cheap food, and a relaxed pace that makes people stay longer than planned. Silliman University gives the city an intellectual character unusual for a town its size, and the cafe scene around the campus is better than you would expect. The public market is worth a morning wander, and the evening food stalls along Rizal Boulevard serve grilled seafood at prices that feel almost wrong.
The main draw offshore is Apo Island, about a 45-minute boat ride from Dauin. The marine sanctuary here is one of the best snorkeling and diving sites in the Visayas, with healthy coral, large schools of jacks, and sea turtles so accustomed to divers they barely glance up. Dauin itself has excellent muck diving for those who prefer hunting for nudibranches and frogfish over big reef scenery.
Inland, the Twin Lakes of Balinsasayao and Danao sit in volcanic craters surrounded by dense rainforest. The hike down to the lake shore is short but steep, and you can rent a kayak to paddle across water so still it mirrors the trees. Casaroro Falls near Valencia is another worthwhile half-day trip from Dumaguete -- a narrow cascade dropping into a deep gorge that requires some scrambling to reach.
Getting here is straightforward. Dumaguete has a small airport with flights from Manila and Cebu, and fast ferries connect to Cebu City, Tagbilaran in Bohol, and Siquijor. From Bacolod on the western side, the drive over the mountains takes five to six hours on a winding but scenic road. Tricycles and jeepneys handle local transport, and motorcycle rental is the easiest way to explore the coast and interior at your own pace.
