At-Turaif is the original walled heart of Diriyah, the seat of the First Saudi State and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2010. Set into a bend in the Wadi Hanifa, the complex is a dense quarter of mud-brick palaces, mosques, and houses in the distinctive Najdi style — thick earthen walls, narrow triangular windows, crenellated tops, almost no exterior decoration.
The restoration is extensive and (depending on your tolerance) either impressive or over-polished. The Salwa Palace, formerly the residence of the Al Saud rulers, is the standout building; several smaller museums inside the walls cover the founding of the Saudi state, Arabian horses, military history, and traditional life. Allow at least two hours; visit in the late afternoon when the colour comes alive.