Ha'il

Saudi desert crossroads between the Great Nafud and Aja-Salma mountains, with Rashidi history and rock art nearby

Ha'il occupies a striking position in the Saudi landscape, sitting between the Great Nafud desert to the north and the Aja and Salma mountain ranges that frame the city. For centuries it served as a crossroads for pilgrims, traders, and Bedouin tribes moving across the Arabian interior. The Rashidi dynasty ruled from here in the 19th century, and the city retains a proud sense of its own identity, distinct from the Hejaz to the west and the Najd heartland to the south. Visitors who make the effort to reach Ha'il find a city that feels authentically Saudi in ways that the more cosmopolitan coastal cities do not.

The ancient rock art sites around Ha'il are the region's headline attraction, and deservedly so. The petroglyphs at Jubbah and Shuwaymis, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2015, span thousands of years and depict cattle, ostriches, human figures, and hunting scenes that record a time when this desert was green savanna. The carvings at Jubbah are set against dramatic sandstone outcrops at the edge of the Nafud, and the site has a visitor centre that provides useful context. Shuwaymis, further south, is more remote and requires a guide, but the density and quality of the rock art there is extraordinary.

In the city itself, A'arif Fort sits on a rocky hill overlooking the old town, its mud-brick walls offering panoramic views across the modern city and the mountains beyond. The traditional souq below the fort is worth a wander, particularly during the cooler months when Ha'il hosts its annual desert festival. The region is famous for its hospitality — Ha'il calls itself the capital of Arabian generosity, and you will find the claim is not empty.

Ha'il also works as a base for exploring the northern desert. The Nafud's red sand dunes begin just outside the city, and day trips into the desert landscape are straightforward to arrange. The Aja mountains to the west offer hiking with views across the surrounding plains. If you are driving between Riyadh and the northern borders, or heading toward Tabuk and AlUla, Ha'il makes a natural and rewarding stopover.

Guide

Getting There

Ha'il Regional Airport receives domestic flights from Riyadh, Jeddah, and other Saudi cities. Saudia and budget carrier flynas both serve the route; the flight from Riyadh takes about an hour and a half. If you are driving, Ha'il sits on the main highway between Riyadh and the northern border crossings — the drive from Riyadh takes roughly six hours on the well-maintained expressway through the desert.

From Medina, the road east crosses the Hejaz highlands before dropping into the interior plateau — a scenic drive of about four to five hours. There are no international border crossings conveniently close to Ha'il for travellers arriving from Jordan or Iraq; most international visitors arrive via Riyadh or Jeddah and take a domestic flight.

Guide

When to Go

Ha'il sits at roughly 1,000 metres above sea level, which moderates its desert climate compared to the coastal cities. Even so, summers (June to September) are brutal — daytime temperatures regularly reach 40 degrees Celsius and the sun is unforgiving. The best months to visit are October through April, when days are warm and pleasant and nights are cool enough to require a jacket.

The Ha'il International Camel Festival, held each year in winter, is the highlight of the regional calendar. It draws thousands of visitors for camel races, falconry displays, traditional crafts markets, and competitive poetry recitation — a distinctly Saudi celebration of Bedouin culture that has few equivalents elsewhere. If you can time your visit to the festival, do so. Book accommodation well in advance.

Spring brings desert flowers to the Nafud and the mountain wadis after good rains — a brief but spectacular transformation of the landscape. April is often the sweetest month: warm enough to be comfortable, still green from winter rains, and the tourist season has not yet wound down.