Sun Moon Lake is Taiwan's largest lake and its most celebrated inland beauty spot. The clear water and surrounding tea-covered hills draw a steady stream of Taiwanese honeymooners and weekenders; whether this lives up to the hype depends partly on the weather. On a clear morning, with Jade Mountain reflected in the still water before the mist burns off, it earns every superlative.
Swimming is not permitted, but renting a boat to explore the lake is easy and worthwhile. The Kuanguang Island on the western shore is accessible by water and has a small temple. A 30km cycling path circles the lake, passing through several viewpoints and lakeside communities — this is the best way to see it at a leisurely pace.
Several temples are worth visiting. The Wenwu Temple, dedicated to both Confucius and the war god Guan Di, sits on a hillside above the northern shore with views across the water. The Xuanzang Temple holds a relic reputedly connected to the Tang-dynasty monk Xuanzang, whose journey to India inspired the novel Journey to the West.
Ita Thao village on the south shore is home to the Thao indigenous people, who have lived around the lake for centuries. The village has a small market and is the departure point for some of the most atmospheric lake walks. Get up early to catch the mist on the water before the tour buses arrive.