The covered market in the centre of Udon Thani is one of the better fresh markets in Isan. Mornings are when it is at its best — pyramids of mangos and durian, racks of grilled chicken, baskets of larvae and fermented fish, the dyed cottons of the Thai-Lao villages further north.
It is also the easiest place to eat: stallholders set out stools and serve khao soi, nam tok, papaya salad, and grilled river fish for next to nothing. Bring an empty stomach and small bills.