The evening market near the main clock tower fills with vendors each night from around five o'clock until ten. It is a small, local market — nothing like the tourist-facing night bazaars of Hua Hin — and that is precisely the point. Stalls sell grilled seafood, pad Thai, noodle soups, fresh fruit, and Thai sweets, all at the kinds of prices you pay when tourists are not the primary customer.
The surrounding streets have a handful of restaurants serving the same catch-of-the-day seafood that defines the regional cooking. Order crab stir-fried with curry powder (poo pad pong karee), grilled squid, or steamed fish with lime and garlic. Eating here alongside families and fishermen is a better measure of the town's character than any sight.