Kadıköy Çarşısı is the market district of the Asian side — a grid of pedestrian lanes filled with fishmongers, greengrocers, spice sellers, bakeries, and the open-fronted pubs called meyhane where beer and mussels are consumed at long communal tables. The market has the unhurried character of a neighbourhood that has not yet been discovered by tourist infrastructure.
The best approach is to follow your nose — the smells of fresh bread, roasting chestnuts in autumn, and the brine of fresh fish all compete for attention. The streets between Moda Caddesi and the ferry terminal are the densest; the further you walk towards Moda, the quieter and more residential it becomes.