The Kizilirmak — the Red River — is Turkey's longest river lying entirely within the country, and it flows directly through the centre of Avanos. The colour is real: iron oxide in the clay carried down from the volcanic highlands turns the water a distinctive rust-red, particularly after rainfall. The bridge over it, and the riverside promenade, are the social centre of the town in the evenings.
At its banks you can see the clay in raw form — red-grey and dense — and understand immediately why pottery became the town's defining industry. The riverside is pleasant to walk, with cafes and a small park on the south bank. In summer, boats run short excursions along the river. In early evening the light on the red water and the white rock formations on the hillside above is worth lingering for.