Liver Kebab Row (Saraçhane Sokak)

The street in Sur where grilled liver skewers are the only thing on the menu

Grilled liver (ciğer) is Diyarbakır's signature street food and Saraçhane Sokak in the old bazaar is where you go to eat it properly. A row of small, identical-looking kebab shops each has a man out front chopping liver into small pieces, threading them onto skewers with tail fat, and grilling over charcoal. The portions are small and cheap — order several. Eat standing or at the basic tables inside. It's busy at lunch; arrive before 1pm or after 2pm to avoid the queue. Wash it down with ayran.

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