Selçuk has a handful of reliable kitchens scattered through the small grid of streets between the museum, the basilica, and the train station. Look for Old House Restaurant in a 200-year-old townhouse for traditional Turkish home cooking (manti, stuffed vegetables, lamb stew), and Ejder on Cengiz Topel Caddesi for grilled meats. Kalehan, attached to the Kalehan Hotel, has the best garden in town and a small but well-judged menu of mezze and grilled fish.
For something different, take a half-day in Şirince — most of the village's restored stone houses are now restaurants serving Aegean village food, often paired with the local fruit wines. The food at the village level is better than anything in Selçuk itself, and the setting is hard to beat. The Selçuk Saturday market along the railway is the place for produce, olives, dried fruit, and breakfast.