Lake Van

Vast, intensely alkaline lake — Turkey's largest, ringed by volcanoes

Lake Van is the largest lake in Turkey, the largest soda (sodium-carbonate) lake in the world, and one of the largest endorheic lakes on the planet — meaning no river flows out of it. The water is intensely blue, slightly salty, and feels soapy to the touch. The lake formed when a volcanic eruption in prehistory blocked the outflow of an older lake; the Nemrut and Süphan volcanoes that ring it are part of the same system.

The shoreline is dotted with stops worth making: the church on Akdamar, the medieval cemetery at Gevaş, the village of Adilcevaz under the Süphan volcano, and the warm-water beaches near Edremit just south of the city. A circuit of the lake by car takes most of two days and is one of the great underrated drives in Turkey.

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The lake's water is so alkaline (pH 9.7) that almost no fish can live in it. The one exception is the inci kefali, or pearl mullet, which survives by swimming up freshwater rivers to spawn each spring — making for a remarkable mass migration in May and June.

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