The Magok-i-Attari Mosque — "the mosque in the pit of the spice sellers" — is the oldest surviving mosque in Bukhara and one of the oldest in Central Asia, with its southern facade dating to the 12th century. It sits several metres below street level, hemmed in by the surrounding bazaar, and the approach down a short flight of steps adds to its sunken, ancient atmosphere.
The southern portal is decorated with carved terracotta in a style that predates the Mongol invasion, making it a rare fragment of pre-13th-century architectural ornament. The mosque now houses a carpet and embroidery museum, which gives travellers an excuse to explore the interior and the collection of traditional Bukharan ikat robes and embroidered suzani textiles. Even if textiles don't interest you, the building itself — with its mix of 9th, 12th, and 16th-century elements layered on top of each other — is one of the most architecturally complex spots in the city.