Po-i-Kalyan Complex

The Po-i-Kalyan complex — "At the Foot of the Great One" — is the heart of Bukhara's old city and one of the most complete medieval Islamic ensembles in Central Asia. Three major monuments share a single plaza: the Kalyan Minaret (1127), the Kalan Mosque, and the Mir-i-Arab Madrasah. The ensemble was assembled over five centuries and yet reads as a coherent whole.

The Kalan Mosque is large enough to hold 10,000 worshippers; its blue-tiled portal is among the finest examples of Timurid decoration in Uzbekistan. Directly opposite, the Mir-i-Arab Madrasah shimmers with turquoise faience and still functions as a theological college. Non-Muslim visitors cannot enter the madrasah's interior, but the courtyard of the mosque is open, and simply standing in the square at dusk — when the minaret glows amber and the madrasah tiles shift from blue to violet — justifies the trip to Bukhara on its own.

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A story
The Mir-i-Arab Madrasah, the blue-tiled theological school that faces the minaret, has been in continuous operation since 1535 — even through the Soviet period, when it was one of only two functioning Islamic seminaries in the entire USSR. The Soviets kept it open partly to demonstrate religious tolerance to foreign visitors, making it a propaganda showpiece that nonetheless kept Uzbek Islamic scholarship alive.