Ulugbek and Abdulaziz Khan Madrasahs

These two madrasahs stand directly opposite each other in the bazaar district north of the Po-i-Kalyan complex, and the architectural conversation between them is one of the most interesting in Bukhara. The Ulugbek Madrasah was commissioned in 1417 by Ulugbek, the Timurid ruler and renowned astronomer who built the famous observatory in Samarkand. Its decoration is geometrically precise and relatively restrained — befitting a man who spent his evenings calculating celestial mechanics.

The Abdulaziz Khan Madrasah, built in 1652 across the street, takes a completely different approach: its interior decoration includes Chinese dragons and phoenixes among the Islamic arabesques, an unusual sign of the Silk Road's continuing influence even in the 17th century. Both madrasahs now function partly as craft workshops and shops where artisans produce traditional Bukharan items including miniature paintings, papier-mâché lacquerwork, and silk. Browsing the workshops is free and the quality is generally higher here than in the bazaar stalls nearby.

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A story
The two madrasahs face each other across a narrow lane, and the contrast between them tells the whole story of Timurid versus Shaybanid taste. The Ulugbek Madrasah (1417) is sober and mathematical — its patron was the astronomer-prince who also built an observatory in Samarkand and calculated the length of the year to within a minute. The Abdulaziz Khan Madrasah (1652) is exuberant almost to the point of excess, covered in polychrome faience with no surface left undecorated.