Bars and Cafes

Haiphong's drinking culture revolves around bia hơi — cheap draft beer brewed for daily consumption and sold from plastic tables on the pavement. The corner of Trần Phú and Lê Đại Hành has a string of bia hơi places that fill with locals on warm evenings; the food is grilled meat and seafood, the noise is considerable, and a bottle costs less than a dollar.

For something quieter, the cafés around the Opera House and along Quang Trung serve good Vietnamese coffee — the strong drip cà phê sữa đá is the standard — in restored colonial buildings. Cộng Cà Phê on Điện Biên Phủ is a popular chain branch with retro-communist décor. Cối Xay Cà Phê near the Opera House serves better-than-average espresso.

For something stronger and more international, the bars around the Pearl River Hotel and along Lạch Tray have cocktails and live music aimed at expats and visiting sailors. The scene is small but functional. Most places close around midnight.