Haiphong is Vietnam's third-largest city and its most important port, sitting on the Cam River delta about 100 km east of Hanoi. It is an industrial city first and foremost, and most travelers pass through quickly on the way to Halong Bay or Cat Ba Island. But Haiphong has more character than its reputation suggests, with wide tree-lined boulevards, faded French colonial architecture, and a relaxed pace that feels nothing like the chaos of Hanoi.
The old French Quarter around the opera house and the central post office is worth a walk. The Haiphong Opera House, modelled on the one in Hanoi, is a handsome colonial building, and the streets around it have some of the city's best examples of early 20th-century architecture. Du Hang Pagoda, dating from the 17th century, is a peaceful escape in the middle of the city, set in a small garden of bonsai trees.
The main reason to stop here is as a gateway. Hydrofoils and ferries to Cat Ba Island depart from the Bến Bính harbour, and the journey through the limestone karsts is scenic in itself. Haiphong is also connected to Hanoi by a comfortable two-hour train ride. The local specialty is banh da cua, a crab noodle soup with flat red rice noodles that is arguably the best street food in northern Vietnam — look for it at the stalls near Tam Bac Market.