Eating Out

Haiphong has one of the best street food cultures in Vietnam, with several signature dishes that exist only here.

Bánh đa cua is the city's signature soup: flat reddish-brown noodles made from sorghum, in a broth of freshwater crab paste, topped with crab meat, fried tofu, water spinach, and a sprig of betel leaf. The best places are around Tam Bạc Market and on Trần Phú street. Look for Bánh đa cua Bà Cụ or any place with a queue at lunchtime — bowls cost a few dollars.

Bánh mì cay is the local variant of the Vietnamese sandwich: a small, narrow, crispy baguette filled with pâté and chilli paste — and almost nothing else. They are sold from street carts everywhere and eaten as a quick snack. The places in the old French Quarter near Lê Đại Hành Street are the most famous.

Nem cua bể is another local speciality: deep-fried spring rolls filled with crab meat and pork, with a distinctive square shape rather than the usual cylindrical roll. Most local restaurants serve them.

For a sit-down meal, Nem Vuong on Minh Khai is reliable for traditional northern Vietnamese cooking. Bia Hôi corners in the old quarter — particularly around Lê Đại Hành — serve cheap draft beer with grilled meat and seafood.