The distinctive foods of Hoa Binh are products of its highland landscape. Com lam — sticky rice steamed inside a sealed bamboo tube over an open fire — is the emblematic dish, nutty and slightly smoky, eaten with grilled fish or mountain vegetables. The Da River and its tributaries provide excellent freshwater fish: ca chep (carp) and ca lang (catfish) are grilled whole over charcoal or braised in clay pots with galangal and lemongrass.
Street stalls and small family restaurants along the main market area near the city centre serve these dishes from early morning. Hill chicken (ga doi) — free-range birds from village flocks — roasted or braised is usually better here than anywhere in the lowlands. Muong and Thai fermented rice wine (ruou can), drunk communally through long bamboo straws from a clay jar, is available at most traditional restaurants and at every homestay in the province. It is mild, slightly sweet, and very easy to underestimate.