Hoa Binh sits 75 km southwest of Hanoi at the edge of Vietnam's northwestern highlands, where the Red River Delta gives way to limestone mountains and terraced valleys. The provincial capital is not much to look at itself, but it serves as the jumping-off point for some of the most rewarding hill-tribe encounters in northern Vietnam.
The province is home to the Muong and Thai ethnic minorities, who live in stilted wooden houses in valleys that have changed remarkably little over the generations. The most popular destination is Mai Chau, a stunning valley about 60 km further southwest, where White Thai villages welcome visitors for homestays, traditional meals, and performances of local music and dance. You can visit on a day trip from Hanoi, but staying overnight in a stilt house is the real experience.
Hoa Binh also sits on the route to Dien Bien Phu, making it a natural stop on the long northwest loop. The massive Hoa Binh Dam on the Da River, one of the largest hydroelectric projects in Southeast Asia, is worth a quick look if you are passing through.