Al-Shaibani is one of the better-known saltah houses near the Bab al-Yemen gate — a no-frills room with a few low tables, the orders called through to a kitchen that turns out a relentless production line of bubbling stone pots. Saltah comes to the table in the same volcanic-stone madrah it was cooked in, the surface still spitting under a froth of green fenugreek (hulba), and you eat it with bread torn from the round flat loaves on the side.
The order to know: saltah lahm (with meat) and a piece of bint al-sahn for dessert. Cheap, fast, and exactly what the city eats every day.