Majuro is the capital atoll of the Marshall Islands, a long, narrow ring of coral islets enclosing a large lagoon in the central Pacific. Three of its islets — Delap, Uliga, and Darrit (known collectively as D-U-D) — form the urban centre, home to most of the country's population and its government buildings, shops, and services.
The D-U-D strip feels surprisingly urban for a Pacific atoll: concrete buildings, busy roads, and a modernistic capitol building that looks out of place against the coconut palms. The Alele Museum downtown covers the traditional and colonial history of the Marshalls, with canoe displays, traditional tools, and photographs from the German, Japanese, and American eras. The Marshall Islands War Memorial Park in Delap marks the site of the massive US Navy base that operated here during the Second World War. The Cathedral of the Assumption is the most prominent church on the atoll, a legacy of the German colonial period.
Head west along the atoll road to Laura Beach, about 35 kilometres from Delap, for a different Majuro altogether. Laura has the best beaches on the atoll, the most authentic village life, and good snorkelling on the reef just offshore. The drive itself passes through quieter communities where traditional Marshallese life is more visible. The Majuro Lagoon — one of the largest in the Pacific — is calm, extraordinarily clear, and easy to explore by kayak or with a local dive operator.