Kosrae is the easternmost of the four states of the Federated States of Micronesia, and one of the most remote inhabited islands in the Pacific. Covered in dense jungle, flowering trees, and citrus groves, it feels genuinely untouched — there are no resorts, no cruise ships, and very few tourists. The island is small enough to drive around in an hour, but rich enough to keep you busy for a week.
The clear ocean around Kosrae is its greatest draw. Living coral reefs completely encircle the island, with more than fifty identified dive sites marked with buoys to prevent anchor damage. The eastern side has beautiful hard coral gardens; the western side drops away into plunging walls where sharks, dogtooth tuna, and schools of barracuda patrol the reef edge. Underwater visibility regularly exceeds 30 metres.
On land, the Leluh ruins are the main historical attraction — a complex of ancient basalt structures on Lelu Island, less famous than Nan Madol on Pohnpei but similarly atmospheric and far easier to explore. The Kosrae State Museum in Tofol provides a useful introduction before heading to the ruins. World War II relics are scattered around the island, and there is a pirate ship sunk beneath the harbour. A hike up Mount Finkol (629 metres, the island's highest point) passes through jungle and a series of waterfalls — a guide is required.
The mangroves deserve special mention. In places they form a high jungle canopy over tidal channels, and paddling through them by sea kayak or traditional outrigger canoe is extraordinary. A marine preserve protects juvenile sea life within the ecosystem. Not all of Kosrae is connected by road — villages like Walung can only be reached by boat, where people live without cars and commute at high tide. The reef diving here is among the finest in the Pacific.