Funafuti International Airport

The international airport is the single most important piece of infrastructure in Tuvalu and the most extraordinary public space you are likely to encounter. The runway takes up most of the width of Fongafale, leaves space for a few houses on either side, and for most of the week is the country's largest park.

In practical terms it has two scheduled commercial connections — Fiji Airways to Suva, and an occasional charter — so plan your trip around the schedule and book early. The terminal building is small but functional. There are no shops, no rental cars, and no taxis: you walk out into the village, or the guesthouse picks you up on a motorbike with your bag wedged between you and the driver.

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Outside the few hours a week when a plane is due, the runway becomes a public park. Families spread mats, kids play football and volleyball, motorbikes drag race, and old men gather to talk. When the Fiji Airways flight is inbound a siren sounds; everyone clears off with practised ease, the plane lands, and within minutes the runway is reclaimed.