Kulia is the larger of Niutao's two villages, set on the western side of the island where the cargo is lightered ashore from the inter-island boat. Most of the island's population lives here, in low concrete and timber houses spread among the coconut palms behind the beach. The maneapa, the island council office, and the small co-operative shop are all in Kulia, along with the only fuel for the few outboard engines on the island.
Sit by the beach in the late afternoon when the men are coming back in from fishing — the canoes are pulled up just below the village and the catch is divided on the sand. There is nothing to buy, nowhere to stay formally, and nowhere to eat in any commercial sense; if you are here you have already arranged everything through a host family.