The waterfront is Neum's main stage: a run of beaches, concrete bathing platforms, cafes, and hotel terraces wrapped around the sheltered bay. It is not a secluded Adriatic fantasy, but it is lively, direct, and easy. You can swim, eat grilled fish, and watch the traffic of small boats without planning much at all.
In July and August the best strategy is to go early or late. Midday brings crowds and heat, while the evening promenade is more pleasant, with families walking along the water and the lights of the bay beginning to show.