Highlights

German Occupation history. The Channel Islands were the only parts of the British Isles occupied by Germany during World War II, from 1940 to 1945. The islands are dotted with fortifications, bunkers, and tunnels. The Jersey War Tunnels complex is the most comprehensive account of the occupation; Guernsey's German Underground Hospital is a haunting place. Alderney has the only Nazi concentration camp sites on British soil.

Sark. No cars, no real roads, no light pollution. A dark sky island with sheer cliffs dropping to the sea and La Coupée — the narrow ridge linking Great and Little Sark with a 300-foot drop either side. Worth a night's stay if you can manage it; day trips are fine but you'll want more time.

St Peter Port, Guernsey. One of the most attractive harbour towns in northwest Europe. The castle, the winding lanes above the port, the covered market. Victor Hugo lived in exile here for 15 years and his house is open to visitors.

Jersey's north coast. The southern bays get the most attention, but the granite cliffs of the north coast are the island's most dramatic landscape. The coastal footpath runs along the clifftops with views to France on a clear day.

Shell Beach, Herm. A beach made of shells rather than sand, on an island with 60 residents and no cars. Worth the 20-minute ferry from Guernsey.

Seafood. Crab, lobster, oysters, mussels, and ormer (a shellfish unique to the Channel Islands and increasingly rare) — all pulled from the surrounding waters. The restaurants on Jersey and Guernsey take this seriously.