Hvar's shore is rocky, like most of Dalmatia. The water is clean and clear, the swimming superb, but if you arrived expecting Caribbean sand you will be disappointed. Pack water shoes — the bottom is sharp limestone and the occasional black sea urchin — and a foam mat for your towel.
For jumping in. The rocks on either side of Hvar Town have been levelled in places with concrete platforms; the water off them is deep and clear. The Pakleni Islands offer the same on a more dramatic scale, with deeper coves and fewer people.
For wading. Pebble beaches are gentler on the feet. The shingle in front of the Franciscan Monastery is the easiest swim from Hvar Town; further east the strip below Pokonji Dol works for families. On the north coast, Mina Beach near Jelsa is a pleasant 20-minute walk from the harbour through pine forest.
For lounging. Several of the new luxury hotels along the coast (and the beach clubs in the Pakleni Islands) charge for sunbeds, umbrellas, and ladders into the water. The Carpe Diem Beach Club on Marinkovac is the social hub; Hula-Hula on the western shore of Hvar Town is the sunset spot.
For solitude. Take a scooter east past Jelsa to the bays of Zavala and Sveta Nedjelja, on the south coast. The water is the clearest on the island and the crowds drop sharply away from the main resorts.