Velo Grablje is a near-abandoned stone village in the mountains above Hvar Town, in the lavender belt that runs along the spine of the island. The drive up the switchbacks from the coast is dramatic, the view at the top takes in the Pakleni Islands and Vis on a clear day, and the village itself is a maze of empty houses, a Renaissance church, and a handful of working homes.
The annual Lavender Festival in late June brings the village briefly back to life, with stalls selling oil, soap, and honey, and tours of the surrounding fields. The rest of the year it is quiet — a couple of konobas open in season — but the walk through the hills, the smell of wild thyme and rosemary, and the view make it worth the trip.