The eating in Jelsa is unpretentious and excellent. The local konobas serve the same repertoire that has made Dalmatian cooking one of the best reasons to visit Croatia: grilled fish pulled from the Adriatic that morning, lamb slow-cooked under a peka (a domed iron lid buried in embers), fresh octopus salad, and local wine pressed from Plavac Mali grapes grown on the steep south-facing slopes above town. Prices are noticeably lower than in Hvar Town, and the food is at least as good.