Jelsa is on the north coast of Hvar island, reached by ferry from Split. The main Jadrolinija car ferry runs between Split and Stari Grad, about 18 km west of Jelsa; the crossing takes roughly two hours and runs several times daily, more in summer. A local bus connects Stari Grad ferry port to Jelsa. Alternatively, a faster passenger-only catamaran runs directly from Split to Jelsa in about an hour — handy if you're travelling without a car, but book ahead in July and August.
From the Split ferry port, you can also connect to ferries from Ancona and other Italian ports via Split. Once on Hvar, a scooter or bicycle is the most enjoyable way to move around; both can be rented in Jelsa and in Hvar Town. The road over the central plateau to Hvar Town is a spectacular 30-minute drive through lavender fields and karst hills.