Lokál is the gold standard for the Czech pub revival — a chain of restaurants that took the traditional hospoda format and made it excellent without making it twee. Dlouhá is the original and best: a long, wood-panelled room with white tablecloths, efficient staff, and Pilsner Urquell piped directly from tanks in the basement. The beer is served at the correct temperature with the correct foam, in the traditional way.
The food is elevated Czech classics: svíčková (beef sirloin in cream sauce), guláš, smažený sýr (fried cheese), and seasonal specials. Full meals are available but most people come for the beer and the tatarák (steak tartare), served with toast and garlic. Reservations recommended in the evening; the long tables fill up fast.