If one pub sums up Žižkov, it is U Vystřelenýho oka — "The Shot-Out Eye", a cheeky nod to Jan Žižka, who lost an eye in battle. Tucked at the foot of Vítkov Hill, it is a proudly grubby, smoke-stained beer hall where Měšťan lager pours cheaply, the walls are plastered with band posters and oddments, and the crowd runs from old-timers to art students and punks.
The big garden out back fills up on warm evenings, and there is often live music or a DJ inside. Don't come for comfort or service with a smile — come for the genuine article: loud, cheap, unpretentious, and as far from the Old Town tourist traps as Prague drinking gets.