Porte des Tours

The Porte des Tours is the main medieval gate into Domme, a 13th-century structure of two cylindrical towers linked by a pointed arch that still controls the only road into the upper village. It was built in the 1280s as part of Domme's bastide fortifications, reinforced in the following century, and used as a prison for captured Knights Templar after 1307.

The Templar graffiti inside the towers is the most compelling reason to stop here rather than just drive through. Carved into the soft limestone over the eleven years the knights were imprisoned, the images include crosses, the Virgin and Child, the Agnus Dei, and figures that may be faces of the imprisoned men themselves. They're small and faded but genuine, and the idea of men carving them by whatever light reached their cells gives the stones an unexpected weight. Access to view the carvings is available during the tourist season.

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A story
After Philip IV of France dissolved the Knights Templar in 1307, over 70 Templars were imprisoned in the towers of the Porte des Tours. They were held here until 1318, and in their boredom and despair they carved graffiti into the limestone walls — crosses, geometric figures, symbols of their order. The carvings are still there, still legible, still strange.